Celebrating All Things Asparagus!

This article was written and reported by Gerry Boylan and David Boylan.

My youngest brother David was back in Michigan recently and since he writes a widely read food/restaurant column it seemed to make sense to continue our tradition of welcoming guest columnists.  While I would be generously considered a finicky eater, David has had an interest in cooking and eating great food since he was a kid.  His marketing company is even named after artichoke.  I, on the other hand would have a hard time knowing the difference between artichokes, asparagus or an anchovy.  Here’s David’s column.  I hope you enjoy it.
 
When my brother Gerry asked me to be his guest columnist I jumped at the chance. While I have a column in a San Diego paper called Lick the Plate, and a radio show of the same name, I thought an opportunity to write for a hometown publication would be fun. (http://www.lick-the-plate.com)

We were kicking topics back and forth and GB, as he is known to family and friends in Royal Oak, mentioned asparagus, with this being the height of the season in Michigan. GB, not being the most adventurous eater, was pawning the asparagus column off on me, but that’s what being part of a big family is all about, right?

OK, back to the topic at hand: wonderful Michigan asparagus. My first experience with fresh asparagus was when I was a student at Grand Valley University. My roommate Jim Cox, came from the Paw Paw region of West Michigan where his family had an asparagus farm. Jim would show up at the house we shared just off campus with buckets of it. Anything that fresh has got to be good so I dove in and never looked back. Sure, asparagus is grown in California and Mexico, but something about Michigan asparagus, probably the combination of soil and abundant rainfall just makes it better.

When I found out a couple years ago that an Asparagus Festival is held in Empire, Michigan every May, I decided I had to get there. One of my favorite foods being celebrated in a spectacular location, how could I miss that?  In addition, my brother and his wonderful wife Kathy own place on Lake Michigan in Empire and I met up with my very pregnant niece Shannon (due in June) and her husband Steve and my great-nephew Asher. 

But what brought it all together at Asparagus Festival weekend was a request me to be a judge at the asparagus recipe contest that is a part of the festival.  I liked the moniker: Asparagus Judge! The festival, it its 10th year, is one of those that is small enough to retain its charm and yet full of world class food and drink from growers, brewers, wineries, and local markets who have tapped into the foodie culture and are transforming Northwest Michigan into a foodie destination.

There were over 30 recipes submitted to our panel of judges, every one of them containing asparagus. I would have gladly served every one of them as a side dish but alas, there was only one winner. I agreed with my fellow judges that Cre Woodard, a local landscaper and Dave Early, who teaches at Interlochen, prepared the standout dish. It was called speared spear and was a panko and rock salt crusted fried asparagus spear on a skewer. It was delicious. Other standouts at the festival included asparagus bratwurst from Deering’s market in Empire and the asparagus beer from Right Brain Brewery in Traverse City. The live music all weekend in the festival tent, the brief, but entertaining parade, the poetry contest, very cool locals, and the down-home vibe made me not want the weekend to end.

Cafe Muse spearheads asparagus-themed dinner Tuesday

I eventually worked my way back to Royal Oak, where I sought out a local restaurant serving fresh asparagus on their menu. I hit the jackpot on my first try when I contacted Café Muse owner David Smith and Chef Greg Reyner. They informed me not only of asparagus on the menu, but an asparagus-themed dinner happening Tuesday, June 4 at 6:30 pm. Each of the five courses will feature a new and creative way of using asparagus and a wine will be chosen to bring out the best flavors of each course.  For their Vegetarian friends they will provide an alternative course selection when required. I’ve posted the full menu below. This dinner is $55 per person, plus tax and gratuity.  Call 248-544-4749 for reservations or go to www.cafemuseroyaloak.com for more information. I always pop in to Café Muse when I’m back in town and wish I could be here for this dinner!

While I've returned to my home in Encinitas, California, my heart will always be in my home state of Michigan.

Café Muse Asparagus Menu:

course one

asparagus puree with marcona almonds, goat's milk, crème fraîche

course two

asparagus, roasted tomatoes, Spanish mahón cheese, sherry vinaigrette 

course three

asparagus, wild rice, and mushroom strudel, with a gruyere mornay

course four

olive oil poached halibut OR king oyster mushroom, lightly smoked asparagus 

course five

asparagus, neufchâtel cheese ice cream