What ever happend to "Greektown?"

I am not even Greek. In another life I may have been, but in this one I was bestowed with very prominent Polish genes. However I sure do love Greek food and that has led me to very frequent visits over the years to that popular area of downtown Detroit called Greektown. Or should I say formerly know as Greektown. It has changed and I do not believe it is for the better.

 I remember my first visit almost 40 years ago when I moved to the Detroit area from Toledo. I was invited by a co-worker, a young female Wayne State student who by the way was also Polish, asked me to dinner at her favorite Greek Restaurant. This was 1973 and the infamous riots of “67" were still fresh in many minds. The mere idea of going to downtown Detroit caused some friends to caution me about being concerned for my safety. But I went anyway and enjoyed a really great authentic Greek style dinner at New Hellas restaurant; arguably the most popular spot at the time on Monroe Street between St. Antoine and Beaubien. 

 Back in the early seventies there were quite a few “real” Greek restaurants to choose from including Grecian Gardens, Olympia, Laikon Café, Old Parthenon and of course New Hellas which was owned by the grandfatherly looking gentleman named Gus who almost always greeted us at the front door. That section of Monroe was the typically referred to as Greektown but it really did encompass the surrounding areas a few blocks in each direction and included a few shops, a church, a grocery store or two and the famous Bouzouki Lounge with it’s belly dancers.

 In the eighties and nineties the popularity of Greektown grew and it was not unusual to see long lines outside many of the restaurants on weekend nights especially when Red Wings were playing at Joe Louis. An ambitious development of shops and restaurants sprung up in the area know as Trappers Alley.  It became one of the few destinations that suburbanites would bring out of town visitors to enjoy an evening in the city. This was long before the two new stadiums were built and before the casinos. (I’ll get to those in a minute)

 Along the way we found our new favorite restaurant, Cyprus Taverna, located next door to New Hellas. I am not sure exactly what year they opened but we became regulars, sometimes visiting two or three times per month and often bringing guests to our “special place”. The owners, Vassos and Elaini were the friendliest and most entertaining hosts and the food was the best. Vassos could be seen almost every night greeting and seating guests with flair and sense of humor and the staff was friendly and efficient. We always enjoyed our dinners at Cyprus. Greektown was at it’s peak of popularity in the late nineties and early two thousands - just as the Casino came along.

 At first it sounded like a good idea that would entice more guests to visit the shops and restaurants in the area and everybody would benefit. The location was the now defunct Trappers Alley as well as the remainder of that block. However it soon became clear that the Casino was only interested in its own prosperity, caring little for the older established businesses. The issue of comps (the casinos reward the frequent players with gift credits) became contentious.  The comps were designed to keep the casino patrons in the casino but were extended to some of the area businesses with conditions. The state gaming commission and the Casino itself made it increasingly more difficult for the restaurants to follow the guidelines. It became clear that the restaurants like Cyprus Taverna could not exist without the comps. Then the Hotel came along.

 Again it sounded like a good idea until they built the unsightly sky bridge across Monroe Street from the hotel and it’s parking garage directly into the Casino. Visitors could get to the Casino without ever setting foot onto Monroe Street and the opportunity to experience the restaurants. Then one by one the restaurants began to fold. Olympia on the east side of the street and later followed by New Hellas. After it closed it’s doors the building was later demolished leaving a gaping hole and void at the corner. As this was happening other non-Greek eateries opened for business along Monroe. Pizza, Bar b Q, and sports bars replaced the traditional ethnic choices. And inevitably and regrettably, Vassos informed us, that he too would close Cyprus Taverna. It was a sad day.

It had been many months since we had been back to Greektown and the old Laikon Café was still there on our previous visit. However it too is now closed. On a recent Saturday night there were plenty of people on the street and the Casino was busy as ever but not many real Greek restaurants are left. After one attempt to try another spot, the service was so terrible that we got up and left after 15 minutes. I suspect it won’t be long before a few more of the old places are out of business.

The Casino changed everything and I suppose some people rather enjoy their experience there and if they happen to venture out onto Monroe Street they can get a Pizza or Sandwich at one of the bars. But the experience of the original Greektown is just a fading memory.

What happened to Greektown? I don’t even call it that any more. It has become Casino-town. Too bad!